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3d-printing/calibration.md

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# ⚙️ Calibration
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## <mark style="color:purple;">W.I.P</mark>
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Do these calibrations with the "0.20mm Standard" profile, _stop fµcking around kid_.
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## Filament Calibration
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**Don't forget to calibrate your printer first.**\
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{% hint style="warning" %}
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**Don't forget to calibrate your printer first.**
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{% endhint %}
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It's a good idea to make sure your belts are properly tensioned before attempting any calibration process. I know, it's a pain in the ass, but making sure the hardware is properly calibrated first will ensure you get valid, consistant and thus usable calibration results.
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As I have a P1S, I'll follow these steps:&#x20;
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* [ ] Check belts - retension if necessary
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* [ ] Inspect carbon rods & Z-axis linear rods - _Wipe with Isopropanol every once in a while_
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* [ ] Inspect carbon rods & Z-axis linear rods - _Wipe with Isopropanol once a month_
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* [ ] Check Z-axis lubrication - _Clean & lubricate if necessary / if you see plastic debris stuck_
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* [ ] Run the 30mn calibration process.\
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* [ ] Run the 30mn calibration process, get a coffee.
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{% hint style="success" %}
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**Start fresh**. Create a new generic filament profile.\
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&#xNAN;_&#x42;rands update their recipes so the PLA you buy right now from X might not be the same as the "same" ones you bought 3 years ago._
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&#xNAN;_&#x42;rands tend to change their recipes over time, so the PLA you buy right now from vendor X might not be exactly the same as the ones you bought a year ago._
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{% endhint %}
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***
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3. Your ideal value is somewhere between those two\
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I'd even go as far as to say it probably is the one 2 steps below the line you found in the first step.
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Note your value, quit the project, discard the changes, open a new project, update your filament profile and save it. _Twice. Just make sure it's saved._
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***
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### Retraction (optional)
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_Cause ain't nobody wanna see spidey webs on their prints, right ?_
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Note your value, quit the project, discard the changes, open a new project, update your filament profile with said value.\
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&#xNAN;_&#x53;ave it. Twice. Just to make sure._
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***
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### Max Volumetric Speed
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{% hint style="info" %}
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_This allows you to find how much your printer can actually go Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr_
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{% endhint %}
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You need to understand that setting print speed to 300mm.s won't change anything if your filament's max flowrate is set at 15mm^3.s; that's why we need to find how fast it can go before going Brrrrrrrrr.
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Most PLA & PETG can be printed at around 15-20mm3/s with no issues on the P1S.\
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&#xNAN;_(That being said, I've installed a CHT nozzle on mine and reached a clean 28mm3/s on most PLA)_
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Run the calibration process with a `startValue` at 10 or 15, a maxValue of 35 and a stepValue of 0.5 .
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Run the calibration process with a `startValue` at 10 or 15, a `maxValue` of 35 and a `stepValue` of 0.5 .
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Use the following calculation to determine the correct max flow value:
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Look at the print from different angles and:&#x20;
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* Find where the sheen changes.\
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&#xNAN;_&#x54;his might be accompanied or preceded by artefacts or inconsistencies._
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* Find the point where inconsistencies start and measure its height in mm.
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Use the following calculation to determine the correct max flow value to save:
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`startValue + ( {measuredHeight in mm} * stepValue) - 1`
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***
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### Retraction (optional)
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{% hint style="info" %}
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_Cause ain't nobody wanna see spidey webs on their prints, right ?_
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{% endhint %}
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`startValue + {measureHeight * stepValue}`&#x20;
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This one is pretty self explanatory so ...\
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`startValue:` _0mm_\
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`maxValue`_: 1mm_\
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`steps`_: 0.1mm_
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Look for the height where there are no strings and no blobs visible.\
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_Don't forget to update your filament profile with the result value._

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